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Today I want to share some of my techniques for creating this very subtle smoky eye and make-up - a look that's intended to simply highlight the beauty that every women already has. I am all for very creative make-up looks with colour and contrast but sometimes it's nice to take a step back and embrace what we've been given, rather than hiding it. One thing I have been doing with this particular photographer (Manny Roman) is slathering the models in Extra Virgin coconut oil. Both of us understand the importance of looking after the model's skin, even if it's just for a few hours. It creates this fantastic sheen and glow when photographed in natural light conditions. It's not so good to use in studio unless you use it sparingly - due to over-exposure with the bright studio lights. In another post I will talk more in-depth about the benefits and uses of extra virgin coconut oil and the best places to source it. But today I will be focusing more on the make-up and what was used to create the look on this stunning model.
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This shoot was for a final look-book for fashion student Shanni Su - shot by Lauren Marsh. Again, this was in the very early stages of my career. Here are the ideas behind the look and what products were used to create it... The inspiration behind the collection was 'Goth meets Nun' - unusual and beautiful. With that in mind, we wanted to keep the make-up a little dark, with a hint of innocence to it. Below are the drawings I sent to the designer to show my thoughts on how I pictured the concept, and how I interpreted the brief. Preparation for a shoot is so important but often the outcome is a little different, as there are so many things to factor in - once you see the model's face in person and start collaborating with other creative minds...only then do you really know which is the best direction to take.    For the final look I tried to create a feel of innocence by adding white into the corners of the eyes, a dab of white on the lid and the thick black winged shadow for drama. I topped it off with black lips to give the Gothic feel that we wanted to achieve. For the lips, I actually ended up using a Mac eye pencil to fill them in and with a Sleek lip gloss on top. At that point I didn't have a black lipstick in my kit plus it was a last minute decision, but it shows there is always something that can be used - improvising is key! I think it makes the world of make-up even more fun, all products can be used in different ways you don't have to stick to the intended use and results can be beautiful.
Click on any product to find out where to purchase them. PRODUCTS USED:- Foundation: HD Micro foundation matifying liquid in 200, as I wanted to keep this whole look very matte. Concealer: Brush on concealer by Kryolan in 02, to keep under the eyes light and bright. Powder: Smash box photo set finishing powder. Cheeks: Smash box Blush rush in Warm golden apricot. Eyes: Mac Cosmetics Carbon (black) and Gesso (Vivid white). Brows: Mac Cosmetics Carbon was brushed through the brows to darken them as much as the lids. Lashes: Mac Cosmetics false lashes. Lips: Mac Cosmetics Eye liner in Feline to fill in the whole of the lips and Sleek Gloss me Phoenix rising to finishing them off. Hair: lighting sprayed with water and gelled back with Dax green and gold hair gel. Disclaimer: I recommend you always test products out on your skin first before using to make sure there is nothing you are allergic too. This shoot was at the very beginning of my fashion make-up career so I still had a lot to learn in-fact the wonderful thing about make-up is you never stop learning. Even the most established make-up artists in the world will tell you that they learn something new every day. That is one of the reasons why I love make-up so much it is never boring! This shoot was inspired by the 70's with a touch of glamour and a modern twist. I wanted to keep the skin fresh and supple, as Eli (Elinor Krupski) has the most beautiful freckles, how I love freckles! Her skin was also blemish-free, I know not fair - so all I used was a tinted moisturiser by Laura Mercier (details below). I also wanted to bring out the copper tones of her natural red hair and beautiful blue eyes, by using copper tones not only in her eye make-up but in the contour. I kept her brows very simple by brushing them upwards ever so slightly, with just a little in-fill of brow pencil strokes where needed.
Feel free to click on any product name to find out where to purchase them.
PRODUCTS USED :- Foundation: Laura Mercier tinted moisturiser - Bare nude. Eyes: Mixture of Mac's Amber lights and Coppering with Black track in the waterline. Brows: Mac's eye brows in Lingering. Cheeks: Mac's mineral blusher in Dainty Contour: I used a product this is no longer in stock, but a great equivalent would be Smash box L.A lights blendable lip and cheek colour in Soft Bronzy Shimmer. Lips: Mac's Cherry lip pencil and Russian red for a deeper colour. Hair: A little Bumble and bumble invisible oil for heat and UV protection primer was used before straightening to keep her locks looking glossy and healthy. Disclaimer: I recommend you always test products out on your skin first before using to make sure there is nothing you are allergic too. |
